Menswear Day London Fashion Week AW11 Edit

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Finally! After much preparation and uploading in the midst of slow, almost dial-up speed Internet connection from Orange home broadband (which I highly recommend you do not use or sign up to - the J W Anderson video took almost 4 hours to get to 30%) here is the LSoD London Fashion Week edit. I would like to thank all of the PR's (including BMPR, Topman in house, AI PR, Starworks, Exposure, Relative MO, Four Marketing and Factory NYC) for giving LSoD readers the chance to 'be' at the shows. 

In all the rush, I forgot to take my chargers out with me and saw my Blackberry and camera die so a few designers do not have videos. Sorry! Those that don't will have their own post (and a few that do, will too) but I have to recover from one full hellish week that will, I think, be my last due to my new job, but LSoD will carry on attending and focusing on menswear day. 


Up first - and the best 10 minutes of my life so far this year - was the incredible JW Anderson who's croaking frog sounds followed by "Eisbär" by Grauzone, "Love Song" by Koudlam and "Wave Of Mutilation (UK Surf)" by the Pixies that stirred us awake at an ungodly 8.45am. The collection was entitled 'The Fear Of Naturalism' which embraced the subcultures that have influenced the previous JW Anderson collections and makes them into a kind of non-denominational celebration of individual freedom, all wrapped up in reconsiderations of English tailoring and attempts to take dressing outside the boundaries of gender. With this in mind, many comments focused on the similarity of the women's collection shown in the week, but it was the tweed jackets with nylon quilted arms with paisley-print upper body or  shirts and trousers. Quilted leather biker jackets teamed with slim tailoring and full-length kilts were a show stopping impact. However, I can see the divine knitwear and the boots with hair toe detailing being hott sellers. 


See the collection pieces in the video and back stage in these shots below: 

Oh, my thanks to Nicola and Tom at Arcadia and the Gemma at Topman for letting LSoD behind the scenes and front 'frow' row - it never disappoints. The Topman Design boy for autumn/winter 2011 would not look out of place leaving a smoky Parisian jazz club during the early hours in the early Fifties as well as with a slight rockabilly edge. Tweed and tonic herringbone suits worked well with high waisted trousers and turn-ups, double-breasted jackets. The inspired printed silk shirts screamed 1970s with a splatter of Paris teamed with neck scarves and the incredibly well talked about faux fur-trimmed coats and faux fox stoles. All to the sounds of "Surfacing" by Chapel Club, "Out Getting Ribs" by Zoo Kid, "Wor" by Django Django. Hott and a treat and a well run show from Family Productions. 


Entitled 'Hold Yer Head Up' which was a collection suitable for Bond Street via Peru, the offering drew on the photojournalism of Pieter Hugo (who famously documented Nigerians with hyenas on leashes), the documentary shots of Sirkka-Liisa Konttinen and David Attenborough's Human Planet. To the sounds of Rhinanna's 'Whats My Name' remixed and Thee Cures Robert Smith, paneled and printed sportswear incorporating nylon fringing and woven blanket fabrics, patchwork and print flat-caps, quilted tops and trousers courtesy of Lavenham, Pointer shoes, Eastpak bags, a suitable Rihanna tribute scarf. It was a confusing collection, but enjoyable non the less. 


NEW POWER STUDIO'S - Influenced by The Last Dance, a mixture of rituals, excesses, costumes and props associated with contemporary hen nights and the traditional Roman Catholic carnival which marks the beginning of Lent. A mixture yes, but the inclusion of luxury fabrics, sportswear with graphic type prints and a small child in a velour hooded tracksuit topped with incense sticks made this an entertaining collection. 

FELIPE ROJAS LLANOS - A grand inspiration of the 'The Grand Hall of the Mountain King', the collection played to the physically challenging world of ballet and opera which, like this collection was beautifully executed. The Red Shoes, by Michael Powel, was a colour influence of muted tones of black and petrol blue for overcoats which drapped, again deep v-necks t-shirts teamed with slim ankle cut trousers which accentuated the beauty of the Grenson shoes. 

MARTINE ROSE -  With a multitude of inspirational sources, the collection presented tribal blanket fabrics,  multi-coloured CAT boots and clothing to keep warm in; jeans with leather, fur and suede patching. 'Amouring for the Weather' really was the total of the collection - with some ghostly white large leafed head garlands. 


The hottest of the coolest designers in London, Kokon to Zai never fail to disappoint with a number of of mens looks that included heavy fur, asymmetric  electric colored prints and pallets and over sized accessories. A show to the end, Kokon to Zai is an event in itself. 


The closing show of menswear day was one of the most enjoyable as well as LSoD readers had the chance to follow the show on Twitter as I was exclusively 'Tweeting from Tween'. The well tailored collection, from a relatively unknown Turkish brand, saw some stunning pieces, including houndstooth trench coats, sharp olive trousers paired with soft wool jackets all to give an mountaineering feel to the offering. Each model was accessorized with a blanket, rolled up as to give the impression of an away day to the hills - though this collection was not over it. 
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